1.When
do I know I have an exhaust problem?
2. How long should my exhaust last?
CATALYTIC CONVERTER QUESTIONS
1. I failed my smog test and the mechanic
said I need a Catalytic Converter how can I be sure?
2. I here a rattle coming from my Catalytic
Converter does this mean it is bad?
3. My check engine light came
on and my mechanic said the Catalytic Converter was the problem. How can
I be sure?
4. What is the difference
between an OBD-I Catalytic Converter and an OBD-II Catalytic Converter?
PERFORMANCE
EXHAUST QUESTIONS
1.What is a Performance Exhaust?
2. Will I get better gas
mileage with a Performance Exhausts?
3. How much horsepower can
I expect to gain?
4. Is bigger exhaust better?
1.When do
I know I have an exhaust problem?
Most of the time an exhaust problem is obvious by the excessive sound
the vehicle makes. Sometimes it could be a small rattle or a broken
hanger that causes the system to hang low. A qualified exhaust shop
should check the exhaust system out at least once a year. Most shops
do not charge for an inspection of the exhaust and it normally takes
less than 5 minutes to inspect.
2. How long should my
exhaust last?
On older vehicles a good rule of thumb is 5 to 8 years. On newer vehicles
(now equipped with stainless steel) average life is 7 to 10 years.
CATALYTIC CONVERTER QUESTIONS
1.
I failed my smog test and the mechanic said I need a Catalytic Converter
how can I be sure?
Check your emission test results. As a general rule if you failed on
the Carbon Monoxide (CO) this is usually an indication
of a bad Oxygen Sensor. If you failed on the Hydrocarbons
(HC) this is usually an indication of a bad Catalytic Converter.
If you failed on the Oxides of Nitrogen (NOX) this
is usually an indication of a bad Exhaust
Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve.
2. I here a rattle coming
from my Catalytic Converter does this mean it is bad?
Yes, this is an indication that the inside substrate is starting to
break apart. An overheated Catalytic Converter was
likely the cause of the failure. This problem should be taken care of
right away. If the substrate breaks down further it could plug the exhaust
and could leave you stranded on the side of the road..
3. My check engine light
came on and my mechanic said the Catalytic Converter was the problem.
How can I be sure?
This has been a tricky problem for most mechanics and exhaust shops,
When diagnosing the problem with a scan tool. The code that comes up
for an inefficient Catalytic Converter is a PO420.
This is an indication that the Catalytic Converter is not doing its
job properly but we have found that this code could also occur if the
Oxygen
Sensor (O2 Sensor) or
sensors become faulty or lazy, We have also found that on the Jeep Cherokee,
Subaru Outback, Ford Explorer and Honda Accord, the factory tolerances
that set off the check engine light are very tight and an engine that
has carbon buildup in the combustion chamber will bring up the cylinder
head temperature which in turn brings up the Oxides of Nitrogen
(NOX) and will set the light off. In these cases we recommend
a product on the market that has been working well to cut down on the
carbon build up and will reduce the dreaded check engine light and PO420
code. The product is called BG44K- Total Deposit Control Fuel
Additive and can be purchased from us at our product link.
A good rule of thumb here is to make sure all components that we have
mentioned here have been checked before the Catalytic Converter
is replaced. There is nothing worse than spending hard earned money
on a Catalytic Converter and find out that the check engine light problem
still exists.
4. What is the difference
between an OBD-I Catalytic Converter and an OBD-II Catalytic Converter?
OBD stands for On Board Diagnostic. There are 2 versions.
OBD-I and OBD-II. In 1970 Congress passed the Clean Air Act
and established the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA).
This started a series of graduated emission standards and requirements
for maintenance of vehicles for extended periods of time. To meet these
standards, manufacturers turned to electronically controlled fuel feed
and ignition systems. Sensors measured engine performance and adjusted
the systems to provide minimum pollution. These sensors were also accessed
to provide early diagnostic assistance. At first there were few standards
and each manufacturer had their own systems and signals. In 1988, the
Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) set a standard
connector plug and set of diagnostic test signals. The EPA
adapted most of their standards from the SAE on-board
diagnostic programs and recommendations. This is considered OBD-I.
OBD-II is an expanded set of standards and practices
developed by SAE and adopted by the EPA
and CARB (California Air Resources Board) for implementation
by January 1, 1996. OBD-II provides a universal inspection and diagnosis
method to be sure the car is performing to OEM standards. While there
is argument as to the exact standards and methodology employed, the
fact is there is a need to reduce vehicle emitted pollution levels in
our cities, and we have to live with these requirements. All cars built
since January 1, 1996 have OBD-II systems. Manufacturers started incorporating
OBD-II in various models as early as 1994. Some early OBD-II cars were
not 100% compliant.
PERFORMANCE EXHAUST QUESTIONS
1.
What is a Performance Exhaust?
A performance exhaust is a free flowing exhaust that has a more aggressive
sound. A free flowing exhaust will increases horsepower and increases
fuel economy. This is accomplished by installing a free flow or larger
diameter core muffler and sometimes-larger diameter pipes.
2.
Will I get better gas mileage with a Performance Exhausts?
YES, a better performing engine uses fuel more efficiently, if driving
conditions and tendencies are similar. However, it is not a guarantee.
Diesel exhaust for trucks will see the biggest gains due to our systems'
dropping exhaust gas temperatures over 150 degrees.
3.
How much horsepower can I expect to gain?
It's different for every car, but typically expected gains are in the
average range of 10%.
Replacing the muffler/exhaust with a performance exhaust will help your
engine increase power by being able to expel exhaust gases quicker.
This creates less workload for the engine, makes it run more efficient,
and results in better power.
4.
Is bigger exhaust better?
Don’t be fooled! Bigger is not better! Many people think that
having the biggest diameter pipe is the best way to make power. Not
true. Due to a variety of factors, extensive testing is required. Our
recommended systems yield optimum power increases. It is a fine line
to reduce backpressure while maintaining good exhaust velocity. It is
not about getting the biggest pipe, it is about getting a more efficient
pipe diameter while maintaining exhaust velocity. There has to be a
balanced design to enhance the maximum engine output, exhaust gas velocity,
and sound. For example, imagine blowing air through a straw (comparing
it to a smaller diameter pipe). This would take time to release all
the air from your mouth, and you would feel pressure in your mouth while
doing so. Now imagine blowing air through a paper towel roll (comparing
it to a larger diameter pipe). You will relieve all your air much faster
and feel little or no air pressure in your mouth because of the larger
capacity of the tube. This is why it is important to get the correct
size piping in order to relieve backpressure while maintaining thermal
efficiency.
| Use
the guide below when calculating pipe size for custom exhaust
work. Keep in mind that the goal is to improve exhaust flow. In
most cases, just changing the restrictive OEM muffler and replacing
it with the same size straight-through Performance muffler will
do the job. To reduce additional backpressure, the OEM exhaust
tubing can be replaced with mandrel-bent tubing of the same size
or one size up from the OEM. As a general rule, you can enlarge
the pipe diameter of your OEM exhaust system by 1/4 to 1/2-inch
to increase your horsepower. However, any additional increase
in pipe diameter is likely to decrease your performance; specifically,
low end torque. |
ENGINE
SIZE |
HORSEPOWER |
MUFFLER
INLET/OUTLET |
Single
Exhaust |
Dual
Exhaust |
150-200 CID |
100 to 150 |
2" to 2-1/4" |
2" |
200-250 CID |
100 to 200 |
2-1/4" to 2-1/2" |
2" to 2-1/4" |
250-300 CID |
150 to 250 |
2-1/2" to 3" |
2" to 2-1/2" |
300-350 CID |
200 to 350 |
2-1/2" to 3" |
2-1/4" to 2-1/2" |
| 350-400
CID |
250 to 550 |
3" to 4"
|
2-1/2" to 3" |
| Use
as a general guide for engine size and performance |
